![]() After about one battery pack on 2S, one stripped. I haven't bothered ordering a new one because I have taped it so I can at least drive it. I've broken one camber link by landing a full throttle jump on the side on pavement. I've broken the bumper's shock absorber once. The only annoying thing is that it pops off quite often. So I would rate the body durability 10/10. And the body would hold up even better if you put shoe-goo and dry wall tape on the body from the get-go. You can prevent the screws pulling through by adding washers to the screws. It has gotten a lot of splits, the screws pulled through, the wing popped off a week ago and the body pops off when you land hard jumps. Sure, it looks like crap, and I would describe it as broken, but it still WORKS. The body has held up perfectly in my opinion. ![]() I haven't broken the RPM hubs, nor the Tekno RC ones for that matter. When I switched out to Tekno RC shafts, the new shafts came with larger hubs that are made out of nylon plastic, which is the same type of plastic that RPM uses, so they should be even stronger in theory. until my shaft broke and the hex got loose and rubbed against the hub and it got stripped. After that I bought RPM at the same price. Now I'm running the hexes that came with the Tekno RC driveshafts. which also stripped, when I broke the shaft so the metal hex rubbed against the metal bearing housing, so I'm not blaming it on the hex, it was my fault. I don't know how but I stripped it on 2S. I have broken the plastic hex that is attached to the shaft. I don't know how it appeared but it's there. I have a little crack in the middle of the chassis, it's about 3 cm long, so the chassis works like normal and the truck isn't driving weird. So I'm not blaming that on the car AT ALL. I launched it off a skatepark ramp full throttle in the middle of the winter when the plastic is weak. I've broken the lower part of the bulkhead once, and that was by incorrect driving. So all and all the shocks are not that great. I've also broken a plastic shock shaft end once. I still use the standard shocks because I just ended up glueing the shock caps on with super glue. Mind you, I don't have them, but my friend does, and he thinks they are VERY GOOD, they have held up amazing for him. I would just opt for the AMAZING FEELING Traxxas GTR Threaded shocks (Rear: TRX-7462X Front: TRX-7461X). Like the shock shafts bending VERY EASILY. I wouldn't buy the aluminium shock caps because of other problems with the shocks. The most annoying thing about the Ultra Shocks are the shock caps. The springs have gone weak over the year, but I'm not blaming that on the truck because the springs go weak on all trucks. The stock Ultra Shocks are not THAT weak, but still a bit weak. But I don't really know about the compatibility with Tekno RC shafts as I stated before. This is not a MANDATORY upgrade, but still worth it. The only place I have broken them on is where the screw-pins are attached. But I tend to land on one wheel on the side quite often, so the a-arms breaking is probably user error. I think I have gone through about 3 or 4 a-arms. ![]() Don't get me wrong, they are tough, but not compared to the RPM a-arms (RPM-80702). The A-arms don't really hold up that well. ![]() This is just my experience of what've happened. Mind you I have only used the Tekno RC shafts with the RPM a-arms for about 1 month so don't get angry at me for telling you that they've held up. I have used RPM a-arms with them, they say that you can't use them with the Tekno RC shafts, but I have used them with them and had some NASTY landing, but the shafts didn't break, neither did the a-arms. They have held up on 3S when my friend lent me his 3S. But they are equally as durable, if not more durable. They are about half the price of the official Traxxas shafts. I bought the Tekno RC driveshafts (Rear: TKR-6852X Front: TKR-6851X) on the rear and I haven't had a single problem. As I said in my "intro", it broke while I was driving it on ICE, on 3s. They have held up great on 2S but they break SO EASILY on 3S. The driveshafts are possibly the biggest weak spot on the Traxxas Rustler 4x4. That happened to me and I need to buy a new plastic shaft (TRX-6852A) to get that screw because Traxxas doesn't sell the screw-pins separately smh. One thing to keep in mind when assembling those driveshafts is to put Loctite on the screw-pin so it doesn't fall out. I have bent one, but I made it straight again. Immediately after that I bought Tekno RC metal drive shafts and they are bulletproof. I drove it on ice, and I was not even flipping it, and it didn't have any traction so there wasn't even much torque going through it. So if you plan to run it on 2S, you don't need to buy Metal driveshafts. I have ran it mostly on 2S (because I didn't buy 3S batteries for some reason) and a bit on 3S. It is my first brushless RC so it has crashed a lot. I purchased a Rustler 4x4 back in March 2020.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |